Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Our NYC weekender

We're back! Linda, Lauren, Mom and I got in late Sunday night from New York City after a FANTASTIC holiday weekend. It was cold, crowded, costly, and very busy - but we made the most of our time there. Here's a quick recap of our activities:

Our ride into Manhattan in a NYC taxi
THURSDAY: We arrived before 11AM and cabbed it in to our hotel, the Embassy Suites located near Ground Zero (on the west side of West Street, near the Irish Hunger Memorial). We stored our bags, and then headed across the East River to DUMBO - Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass - on the subway.

Pizza paradise



We took the short walk to Grimaldi's Pizza and enjoyed an awesome lunch, the four of us stuffed into a small corner table inside the packed room, with the rest of the coal-fired faithful.



Lunch over, we walked down to the Fulton Street Landing under the bridge, took some pics, then headed over to Jacques Torres Chocolate Factory nearby on Water Street for some hot cocoa - the best, thickest, sweetest, and most flavorful I've ever had. Of course, we had to walk it off. So across the Brooklyn Bridge we trekked - back to Manhattan - dodging bicyclists, runners, and photo opportunists too focused on their subjects to realize how they screwed the pedestrian flow. (A note here about Mom - she did a great job on her feet, neither too slow nor too fast, and she never seemed to tire.)

Most of my ladies under the Brooklyn Bridge
Once back on the island, we went back to our room to get checked in and to freshen up for the Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall. We took a cab to the theatre to save some time and made the 5PM show. It was as advertised - spectacular. Our only complaint - because I had an "SLR" camera with a telephoto lens, I had to check the equipment at the front door. During the show, however, many other patrons violated the "for the safety of the performers" prohibition against flash photography, lighting the place up with point-and-shoot and cell-phone camera snaps.

Under the Tree at Roc Plaza
After the show, we walked around a bit in Rockefeller Plaza, getting our first glimpse of the Tree (and some pics) and then diverted to an Irish pub (P.J. Moran's) on 48th Street. We had another great meal - comfort food (like Shepherd's Pie) for all and Guinness for me! Highly recommended. The subway trip back to the hotel was easy, though the station on Chambers Street was just a BIT farther than we would have liked in the cold.

FRIDAY: We got up early and enjoyed what can only be described as the best complimentary breakfast we've ever had at a hotel (but considering what we paid for the room, entirely expected)! This wasn't "continental" - it was a full breakfast bar and it was delicious.

At 9AM sharp near the concierge desk, we met Tony Lorenzo, our guide from Real New York Tours (www.realnewyorktours.com). Tony gave the four of us an "insider's view" of the city during what turned out to be an eight hour (scheduled for six) private walking tour that started in Central Park. I got some great pictures there and we thought it was one of the tour highlights.

Central Park
We next visited the Apple Store and FAO Schwartz on Fifth Avenue, then got on a train at Columbus Circle to Greenwich Village (Christopher/Sheridan Streets).Maybe the best part of the tour, Greenwich Village is so charming and historic that we made a note to come back on another trip to thoroughly explore the place. We strolled through Washington Square and got some history on the buildings nearby. Then we jumped on a bus (our all-day Metro cards covered the ride) and headed to Little Italy and Chinatown, where we ate lunch at ABC Chinese Restaurant, one of Tony's favorite places.

Tony and our gang at ABC Chinese Restaurant
After a walk through Tribeca, we finished the evening strolling through City Hall Park, looking through a couple of the churches near Ground Zero, and then walking along Wall Street. Tony is an actor (of the TV and film sort) and has appeared in hundreds of productions, including Law & Order (of course), Spin City, and The Departed. He is so personable and knowledgeable, and was so accommodating to our group (Lauren wasn't feeling all that great so we modified the walk a bit) that we felt like he was family. It was truly like visiting an uncle or cousin who's lived in the city all his life and shows you around for a day. Linda and I strongly recommend this company and Tony as your guide. We have details if you want. We got back to the hotel around 530PM, shed our heavy coats (and Lauren, who crashed immediately), and walked down to the "Manager's Reception" for happy hour. Free drinks - awesome. After unwinding a bit, we went back upstairs and spoke a little bit about going to Little Italy for dinner. That lasted all of 30 seconds. We were all exhausted and asleep by 8PM!

St. Patrick's Cathedral
SATURDAY: Our plan was to get up early to get down to Rockefeller Center to see the Today Show, but showers, breakfast, and a generally unmotivated group (Lauren slept in and committed to meeting an old friend from high school later in the day) combined to slow our departure from the room until around 830AM. It was really cold and the walk to the City Hall subway station a bit further than where we had been getting on at Chambers Street. We got to Rockefeller Center around 915AM, way too late for the Today Show. So, instead, we walked over to St. Patrick's Cathedral and got some good interior photos. Then it was back downtown along Fifth Avenue for fifteen blocks (on foot) towards Herald Square and Macy's. We spotted the NYC Library on the way and had to check it out. We spent almost an hour there and are glad we did. What a neat place, also deserving some more time on the next trip.

Mom and I with Leo at the NYC Library
Walked by Saks and then finally got to Macy's, which was a mob scene. We got the windows in and some shopping, too, and appreciate Kathy's Friends and Family discount! After a coffee at the Starbucks, we collected our coats and bags and headed towards Times Square on the subway. We stopped at a Mexican restaurant (Chevy's) off the square and had a most average late lunch. NOT recommended.

Times Square near TKTS booth
We then headed to the TKTS booth. For those unfamiliar with TKTS, it's the place you get discounted "same day" Broadway show tickets. It's kind of a crapshoot, but generally works to everyone's satisfaction. After standing in a long line there (they opened at 3pm) for over an hour in a very crowded Times Square, we picked up four tickets for "Chicago" at 8PM at the Ambassador Theatre. We got back to the hotel via subway and settled in for Happy Hour. We were back out by 7PM and on a subway train. We met Lauren, who stayed in touch with us via text during the day, near the Ambassador at 730PM. "Chicago" was fantastic - the theatre is small and very intimate and the players were really talented. We enjoyed it very much. We weren't sure we were going to have dinner after the show, which wrapped after 10PM, but heading back through Times Square we spied a Famous Dave's BBQ nearby and ate a full meal. We got back to the hotel late via subway and crashed hard around 1AM, planning to get up early to get Mom to mass at 8AM.

SUNDAY: Our plan for Sunday morphed from "very active" to "very leisurely," influenced by our late wake-up at 8AM - way too late for early mass. We originally thought about doing Ellis Island or a taking a ferry ride to Hoboken, NJ, to visit Carlo's Bakery (of "Cake Boss" fame), but settled instead on long showers, packing our bags, and an easy pace at the fantastic breakfast bar. I got outside with my camera for about an hour and got some good shots of the Irish Hunger Memorial and the water before heading back inside to finish packing. We were out of the room by 1130AM and checked our bags into storage, then got Mom to the 12PM mass at St. Peter's. Linda, Lauren and I stopped in at a Starbuck's nearby to wait. After a cup, I wandered back outside with my camera and got some pics of the cemetery at St. Paul's Chapel and some surrounding activity. I picked Mom up at St. Peter's at around 1PM, then Linda and Lauren at the coffee shop, and we took the short walk from there to the City Hall subway station. One stop later uptown at Canal Street and we were back in Little Italy.

In Il Cortile's "courtyard"
We walked to Il Cortile (translated - The Courtyard), a restaurant that Linda and I found and liked very much on a previous trip. We were seated in the garden, a brightly lit courtyard solarium, under a live orange tree that Mom found fascinating. Lunch was outstanding, albeit expensive. I loved their "Sunday Sauce," full of different simmered meats (including braciole, hot sausage, a meatball and pork rib) and perfectly seasoned, over cavatelli. Lauren had her favorite (Chicken Parm), and Mom and Linda shared stuffed gnocchi and risotto with mushrooms. Here's where the story gets a little dicey. I convinced Linda that we had plenty of time to get back to our hotel to pick up our bags (after all, it was only one short subway stop back to the City Hall station), get a taxi to LaGuardia, and be there by 5PM. So we had dessert - Oh My God awesome dessert (New York style cheesecake and a tartuffo) and coffee. We departed the restaurant at about 330PM, and walked back to the Canal Street subway stop. Here's where I screwed up. Instead of reversing our route on an "R" train, I figured (wrongly) that an "N" train was just as good. We ended up crossing the Brooklyn Bridge over to Brooklyn. This error cost us about 30-40 minutes of backtracking, which sent Linda into full meltdown mode. But, as I explained to her, I always build in a little cushion (our definitions of "cushion" are wildly different). We got back to the hotel at around 450PM, did some last minute repacking and arranging, potty stops, and were in a cab by 515PM. Our flight was scheduled for 655PM departure. We arrived at LaGuardia at around 540PM, checked in quickly, and were at the gate (Linda's definition of "now I can relax") by 6PM. Fuhgeddaboutit!

Some final notes and observations: 1. Christmastime in NYC is really cool. Do it once, then opt for another time of year for future trips. It's just too crowded and hectic to be completely enjoyable. 2. Take the walking tour with Tony. 3. Gamble on TKTS - it hasn't let us down yet. 4. Take the subway but don't be afraid to use a taxi if you're pressed for time. 5. Delta was awesome in terms of the actual flights - both full but on time. Hint: If you're not a Delta SkyMiles member, join. It's free and it saves you the $23 PER BAG surcharge for checked luggage. 6. If you live in S. Florida, take an early flight up and a late flight back.

That’s it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

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